Sanma 秋刀魚

In Japan, sanma is known as a defining taste of autumn. Its name is written 秋刀魚 in kanji: 秋 means "autumn" and 刀 means "sword". The name is said to come from the fact that the fish comes into season in autumn and that its slender, silver-glinting body calls a sword to mind.

As a migratory fish it loses freshness quickly, and it could once be eaten raw only in the regions where it was landed. With advances in refrigerated distribution, however, it is now widely enjoyed as a sushi topping too. Sanma in season carries plenty of fat, and its rich umami and sweetness — typical of silver-skinned fish — blend beautifully with vinegared rice. It is said to pair better with condiments than with wasabi, and some restaurants serve it topped with ginger or green onion.

Along the Kumano-nada coast of Mie and Wakayama Prefectures, "sanma-zushi" — made with a whole, leaner sanma — has long been cherished as a local specialty, and January 10 is designated Sanma Sushi Day.

Origin: Hokkaido, Miyagi, Iwate, Fukushima, etc. Season: Autumn (September to October)