Kawahagi 皮剥

Kawahagi has long captivated diners in Japan with the melting richness and dense, creamy flavour of its liver. The liver swells in winter, and the finest specimens generally reach the market from October to March; the fish’s price can even depend on the size of its liver.

The gleaming white flesh is every bit as appealing. It has a resilient bite reminiscent of fugu, together with concentrated sweetness and umami. The flesh is at its best in summer, while the liver peaks in winter, giving kawahagi two distinct seasons to enjoy.

Kawahagi was already a luxury fish because catches were limited, and declining wild stocks have made it rarer still. Farming is now common—and farmed fish are said to develop especially large livers.

Origin: Mie to Kyushu Season: autumn to winter