Anago 穴子

Anago has long been a much-loved Edomae topping; back in the day it was a staple for ordinary people, right alongside marinated tuna (maguro-no-zuke).

There is a clear difference between the anago of Tokyo and that of Osaka. The way it is cooked differs mainly between the Kanto and Kansai regions: in Kansai it is most often grilled, while in Kanto the old tradition is to simmer it (ni-anago). Either way, the fluffy flesh pairs superbly with a sweetish soy-based sauce. The sauce brushed over simmered anago is known in the sushi world as 'tsume', because it is made by simmering it down.

Like eel, anago catches are declining in Japan — perhaps from overfishing — so hopes are rising for aquaculture.

Origin: Aichi, Hyogo, Shimane Season: summer